yep , looks just like the "normal" wear for these things to me


quickshifts are pretty good to "cover-up" these little problems

& yes Fiji, i can help you out with a Quickshift

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

Hey Matt,
I think I may run into issues of gear-stick length with a quickshift, as this will be going into my Moke?

I have also heard of people rebuilding the large ball to close the slot up to what it would have been like when new; and therefore cut down the slack in this area.

Has anyone done this?
And would the weld be as hard as the (hardened???) steel ball itself?
Ie... not like cheese and be buggered again in months////

yeah we`ve bent & shortened the sticks for mokes on many occasions, they work good after that

& yes most "arc" welds will make that section of the ball harder, oxy weld is often a bit softer tho,,, just a bit of a pain shaping it back to fit good & polish it back to a hi-sheen. just a bit of elbow grease

_________________
No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

If you want it hard, IMO you need to build it up with hardfacing electrode then get the slot recut.
Welding it with MIG wire, whether steel or S/S will not give you a very hard deposit.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I might pop up and see my mate that has an expansive workshop.
How about TIG?
I will measure up the slot and see if it's suitable to be milled - more accurate than hand cutting

Elbow grease for sure!

Nearing the final stages of the Moke to get it back on the road after a quick freshen-up, meanwhile summer is rapidly fleeting.

YEAH you can TIG it with hardfacing rod.
But for something this thick- I'd just arc weld the bugger with Cobalarc electrode or similar.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

yep, me too

_________________
No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.