howdy lads

Im looking to tap into some alloy parts, i bought from specialist components.

I have no idea what reacts with alloy? if i use a steel bolt thats will fuse right?

what about a titanium bolt? stainless? or is it best just to slam it with cooper paste.

Steel is fine, S/S is too (but may be weaker depending on grade).
Don't use copper paste, dip the bolts in lanolin or Permatex/Loctite #3 gasket cement.
Works fine on outboard motors (with S/S studs).

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

why not copper paste? i have some of that zinc paste at home the silver stuff would that work?

Copper and aluminium are bad companions. Add water and you will promote corrosion.
That silver paste may be nickel, not zinc (if it is anti-seize compound).

Outboard motor makers (Johnson & Evinrude) dipped all their threads in lanolin (wool fat) before fitting.
I used to use Permatex #3 gasket cement on these when replacing. It seals the water out. 10 years later, I could still screw them out.
I still use it on Mini thermostat housing studs.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

ok cool thank you doc ill do that then! yes i have the nickel one sorry. would that work?

Nickel anti-seize would be better in alloy than copper.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Being nosey but, wot you fitting ?

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'98 Mpi Sportspack + 7 port alloy head

rear alloy hubs & alloy mini fins to lighten up the mini a bit,

might go alloy rear arms not sure yet or im going force racing split rims and leaving it at that.

Alloy doesn't particularly like stainless steel unless you properly isolate the joint. Especially if you're anywhere near a marine environment; the salty air will trigger corrosion.

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You're only supposed to blow the BLUDDY DOORS OFF!!

so would titanium be better?

Don't know if it's different for drums but once I finished bleeding from my knuckles and screaming profanities I finally got the remains of the screw out (with a bloody big hammer and impact driver, which I twisted in the process) I threw that screw away as I reasoned the clamping force from the wheel nuts would be more than that puny screw anyway. And now if I ever have to change discs again it's much easier, as that screw won't ever get seized again.

+1 for what the doc said.

[quote="drmini in aust"]Copper and aluminium are bad companions. Add water and you will promote corrosion.

Question for you 'drmini' slightly off topic but seeing we are discussing anti seize, I am going to change the long life iridium spark plugs in an all alloy V8 shortly, I was going to use the jar of copper based anti seize I have until I read this thread, any suggestions as to what to use? They are long life plugs so will be in the alloy for like 80,000km and a lot of years.
Appreciate your thoughts.

I would use nickel anti-seize, it is better for high temps than copper anyway.
I use the nickel one on the Y-piece of my Maniflow LCB. Hopefully it won't seize on like it did with the copper one.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Thanks, I've done the same but not split rims. And I used KopraCote on the drum screws so I think I'll check 'em out

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'98 Mpi Sportspack + 7 port alloy head