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SteveOB
 Post subject: radiator removal
PostPosted: Wed Mar 21, 2012 6:18 pm 
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I've looked it up - even did it about 15 years ago, but it took me half a day and lots of swearing and knuckles scraped

seriously, how easy/hard is it (surely not half a day!) and is it easier to remove the lot (ie shroud and all) in one go??

mine needs an overhaul or replacement so am gonna have to do it soon

cheers!
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ryan
 Post subject: Re: radiator removal
PostPosted: Wed Mar 21, 2012 6:24 pm 
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Quote:
Another way of removing the radiator provided by Matt Read .

The MiniMan wrote:
Removing the Mini Radiator

OK ,,, before this blows out into a frenzy of people stuffing with their radiator shrouds,,, the mini radiator is already an "Easy-out" item if you know how

There’s a simple standard easy way,,,, & then there is the "usual" misinformed , time consuming, head ache, pain in the arse way

Listen (read) & learn

Firstly, you take the 2 engine mount bolts & nuts out from the passengers side,,, then jack the engine up on that side,

2ndly you undo & remove the 2 vertical bolts that mount the bottom radiator bracket to the engine mount bracket (Not the 2 bolts that are located side ways through the lower radiator bracket to the lower radiator cowl, just leave them there),

then with the top radiator bracket & both top & bottom radiator hoses un-clamped, it’s just a matter of lifting the whole assembly, radiator with cowls attached , in one big bit, straight up & out of the hole... easy-peasy

the factory even made the later radiator cowls one piece because there really was never any reason the make it 2 pieces in the first place (except to fool the un-initiated)

It’s that easy,,, the Morris 1100 ones are even easier as they only have one bolt at the bottom.

A weenie bit of patience & a tad of practice & common sense & your radiator will be out in about 5 mins flat... & back in about 8 mins

Not all weekend like some do trying to remove all the cowl screws & removing it separately,,, WRONG!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

sorry but this topic really gets my back up , because it’s so easy & quick doing it the "CORRECT" way

ok,,, rant over, & again sorry but dam!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

no offence to anyone intended, I just mean this post as a help to any & all who listen to ideas of modifying things that just really don’t need modifying.
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MadMatt "Ready" Read---> "The MiniMan"


Hope this helps

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Ryan Filippi
Minis In The Gong
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www.minisinthegong.com.au
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Fiji
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Mar 22, 2012 11:45 pm 
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Yep that's it . Easy peAsey, as the
Man himself would say. It is that easy . 20 mins eather way. G l

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SteveOB
 Post subject: radiator removal
PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2012 11:16 am 
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20 minutes eh??

have been under, in and around it now for near on an hour!!

any clues on the best engine jacking points please so I can at least get a spanner into that tight spot for the two engine mount bolts??

cheers!
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NG
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2012 11:49 am 
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gearbox.. put a bock of wood on it when jacking onto the box..

works perfect takes me about 35mins out.
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origmini
 Post subject: Radiator Removal
PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2012 11:50 am 
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.Sorry


Last edited by origmini on Tue Apr 10, 2012 12:30 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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SteveOB
 Post subject: radiator removal
PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2012 11:57 am 
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ok so several skinned knuckles later I have now managed to get the two engine mount bolts free from the bracket to the radiator

now I am stuck on how the hell it slips up past the fan and the side of the car without taking off the shroud?

surely the shroud has to come off no?
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SteveOB
 Post subject: radiator removal
PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2012 11:58 am 
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oh and it's on a mini-matic if that makes any difference (not sure sorry!)
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SteveOB
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2012 12:26 pm 
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aa haaaa!!

stoopid me had the car jacked up AND the engine too!!

dropped the car, radiator popped out - it can be done - wish I knew this when I did it years ago, and I didn't even have to take off the bonnet this time too

thanks Mini folkers, am off to get it overhauled, new cap and a fan too while it's off methinks
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simon k
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2012 3:58 pm 
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weld the nuts on to the engine mount before you put it back in too...
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1071 S
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2012 6:40 pm 
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"..weld the nuts on to the engine mount before you put it back in too..."

Been there, done that...wouldn't do it again...

With loose nuts you can wiggle/screw the bolts through the holes then fit the nuts. With welded nuts you have to line the holes (subbie/mounts) up perfectly and then get the bolt at a perfect angle to engage the threads... Oh, and you end up with the bolts wrong end up as well...

Cheers, Ian
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SteveOB
 Post subject: radiator removal
PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2012 7:14 pm 
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was wondering why I'd wanna weld the nuts in

I found if I laid a certain way, closed my eyes and twiddled me nuts, all seemed good

hope the radiator goes back in as well tho

;)

Am still made up it came out so easy. Plus, on a MITG recommendation, took it to Unanderra Radiators for an overhaul - they told me she looks blocked, will give it a going over, should be ready by 2pm tomorrow for $70 thanks

plus already ordered a new fan and radiator cap from John at the Mini King too

good old easter hols so far so good!
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drmini in aust
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2012 7:36 pm 
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1071 S wrote:
"..weld the nuts on to the engine mount before you put it back in too..."

Been there, done that...wouldn't do it again...

With loose nuts you can wiggle/screw the bolts through the holes then fit the nuts. With welded nuts you have to line the holes (subbie/mounts) up perfectly and then get the bolt at a perfect angle to engage the threads... Oh, and you end up with the bolts wrong end up as well...

Cheers, Ian

[puts on flameproof suit]
Been doing this since 1966, it works for me. I used to tack `em with the old arc welder, now I use the MIG.
Just watch they are spaced at the right centres for your subframe holes, I use a jig to align the bolts/nuts.
They are not hard to align with the subby holes- use a #2 Phillips or Posidriv screwdriver, it won't hurt the threads.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:
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1275LS
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2012 7:45 pm 
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To updates Matt's instructions:

    Jack the car up and place on a short stand or sturdy wood block.
    Remove the road wheel.
    Take the 2 engine mount bolts & nuts out from the passenger’s side by undoing the nuts in the wheel arch.
    Jack the engine up on the passenger’s side until the 2 bolt heads for the radiator bracket on top of the engine mount are easily accessible from the wheel arch. This also helps when lifting the Radiator out
    Undo & remove the 2 vertical bolts that mount the bottom radiator bracket to the engine mount bracket - not the 2 bolts that are located sideways through the lower radiator bracket to the lower radiator cowl.
    Remove the top radiator bracket .
    Unclamp both top & bottom radiator hoses
    Tilt the radiator sideways so the bottom goes towards the wheel and the top goes towards the engine if it is snug on the fan and wiggle it out.

As the Mini Man would say – Easy peasy!

I did this today. No worries..

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Alec
1275LS - July 78 - XNFAD18Y/102918
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