drmini in aust wrote:
Kennomini wrote:
I might try an oil change on the week end.
Hey Doc what's involved in the stuff you suggested.
1. Make sure the spring is straight, or get a new Cooper S one.
2. Pinch a
CV ball (9/16") or go buy a new one from a bearing shop.
3. Grind a chamfer inside the best end of the spring so it sits on the ball better. I use a pointed stone in the die grinder. It's not essential if you can't do it.
4. Cut a piece of smooth 5/16" or 8.0m steel rod 40mm long, deburr the ends and put it inside the spring. This stops the spring bending and pushing the ball sideways off the seat (with instant oil pressure drop).
5. Remove the old relief valve plunger. I use a 10mm dynabolt, put it inside the plunger and then do the nut up a bit. Then you have a handle to pull the sucker out with. But sometimes they come out easy with your finger (if the right size).
6. Assemble it all into the valve, refit the cap, start engine and check pressure. If it's too high, trim 2mm or more off the outer end of the spring.
I run mine @ 70-75psi hot from 2500rpm up. Cold, it's ~90psi...
Time to split hairs....I removed the old set up and it looks like a po has done this before and I've found some differences between their set up and my set up.
My stuff is on the left, the one out of the engine is on the right;
My ball is straight out of a CV and is 11/16" (16.62mm) the old one is 9/16" (14.28mm) this doesn't match up with what you said above, which ball should I use
.
My shaft is 7.8mm and the old is 8.3mm (but has square edges so can jam up in the spring) and the ID of the spring is 8.7mm, I'd like to use the old shaft (after I chamfer the ends) seeing as it's a closer fit so less chance of the spring bending on the shaft. Do you agree with this
I'll be using my new spring just not sure about the other two parts...
. Yes your right it's a brand new cooper S spring, about 3-4mm longer than the old one. I reused the old 9/16" ball.
