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drmini in aust
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 05, 2013 7:44 am 
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Mick, the backplates are bloody hard to mark out and drill straight, on the car. Of course if you take them off the car, it gets easier. :wink:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:
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Lillee
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 05, 2013 7:55 am 
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drmini in aust wrote:
It only looks easier. Hard to drill it right, if on the car (try it, haha).


But Kev you did that on my car, looked pretty easy from where I was sitting with beer in hand :lol: 8)

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K
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drmini in aust
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 05, 2013 7:58 am 
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Lillee wrote:
drmini in aust wrote:
It only looks easier. Hard to drill it right, if on the car (try it, haha).


But Kev you did that on my car, looked pretty easy from where I was sitting with beer in hand :lol: 8)

That's only because I am/was a `trained professional' ie a metal surgeon.:mrgreen:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:
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GT mowog
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 05, 2013 12:24 pm 
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Before getting excited about drilling the backing plates to fit what might be the wrong wheel cylinder, what brakes have you go up front?

There were 2 types of drums, single leading shoe and twin leading shoe. A quick way to check from the outside is to look at how many adjusters the fronts have. 1 = single leading shoe, 2 = twins. DON'T fit a 3/4" rear cylinder if you have single leading shoe up front.

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