Wat causes the clutch to shudder .. Is it a flywheel problem or clutch / adjustment

Can be many causes- here's a few:

Loose engine mounts or steadies,
worn or badly machined flywheel or backplate surfaces,
`cornflakes packet' ie Asian made clutch facings,
oil on clutch plate,
worn thrust plate on diaphragm (recent ones are NOT hardened, & they wear bad with the late type release bearing),
worn `wok' bore & throwout plunger (rare).

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Ok must be the flywheel as it has had a lot machined off it will talk to the engine builder c wat he thinks

When I say `worn or badly machined', I mean inside the flywheel where the clutch plate runs, not the outside bit that gets machined off to lighten it.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Also look to see if the flywheel is tight on the taper.

I had similar problem in the Moke after changing the clutch and i had to redo it all and lap in the flywheel and the problem went away

Kiwiinwgtn

What about the nose of the crank Doc...(the taper and how it mates to the flywheel)

and post height...

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"Show me the Mini!"

Incorrect post height (ie diaphragm spring not flat) can make it slip, but not shudder (unless say 1 backplate bolt has backed out a bit. I Loctite these bolts to be sure...)

Read this, it has lots of correct Mini clutch setup info:

http://www.minimania.com/article/153/Cl ... non-Verto_

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

yeah sometimes the whole clutch assy hasn`t been "set-up" properly on the flywheel & isn`t central (setting up the guts of it with the 3 straps)

so the tin-hat sits slightly off to one side & hey presto it shudders,,,

you`ll see the spring seat mark on the flywheel (where the spring has been pivoting on the flywheel) & it will be offset, not the same thickness shiny mark all the way around & may even be a ridge where it`s buried deep into the surface on one side & sitting off the ring on the other

have a close look when it`s all out & you`ll see

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

Would reducing the height of the back plate post as noted in the article help with clutch engagement

It definitely bites better on takeup when the diaphragm is set flat on assembly.

I have had some folks' clutches that needed .070" off the 3 posts to make it sit flat. In one case of a 1275LS like this, the clutch was slipping, but when removed the driven plate only had .020" total wear on it.
A new plate and machine the lugs, then it was all good again.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.