This thread is to help me figure out all the little things that I get confused with during my twinki build.
To start with I'm building a 1360 (1100S), 8 valve (K100), fuel injected, naturally aspirated (single TB), four syncro remote box, quafie ATB diff, pot joint CV's and that's about it so far.

The first issue I want to figure out is the block details (#12YDTaH). This is what I have;




In the 3rd pic you can see at the back of the block behind cyl 4, what is that threaded hole
In the 4th pic what is the threaded hole in the middle of the block
And what is the threaded hole near the edge of the clutch end in the middle
Also in the 4th pic what are all the round sections between the pushrod channels do they lead to oil galleries, can these be drilled and taped into for oil drains
Finally can the dizzy hole be sealed with a welsh plug, what size

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Respect mine and I'll respect yours.

Q1 It's in the oil pickup, there is a brass plug goes in there to seal.
Q2. It's unused on transverse engines, it may be used on a Midget for something like air filter support (maybe).
Q3. Water jacket drain, takes another brass plug.
Q4. Oil drain gallery from rocker gear. Not sure how thick the metal is but could be (carefully) tapped.
Q5. Maybe. Or contact Benjamin on here, he sells a pretty CNC alloy cover for it.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Q2. I've been told that was used on the assembly line to hold the block and position for machining. Could be wrong though.

Q5. Yea you can use a plug, just measure the hole and buy a plug and knock it in.

Made from 6061 billet, CNC machined to fit A-series engines.

Price is $40 each Machined Finish, includes new o-ring and stainless cap screw.

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1152cc turbo A-series now with 125.7hp at the wheels !

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sealed up most of the block deck today, just need to track down some castiron for the two end head studs.

Also degreased and pressure washed the block, three different coats of paint so far plus the factory paint.
It's good to be finally physically doing some work on this build, it's been in the pipe line for a couple of years now gathering parts and finalizing specs.

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Respect mine and I'll respect yours.

Hi Kenno

I'm sure you will find a lot of your answers here

A couple of tips at this stage, DON'T let the machine shop take too much metal off the deck, or the head, particularly if you are welding up the oil returns in the alloy head


http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=77313

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Dalmeny

Yeah I've been watching your build thread.
My efforts to find some cast iron rod for the end stud holes hasn't worked out so I looked around the yard and came up with an old cast iron cinema seat frame so my guess is seeing as it's decades old and things were built to last back then it'd be half decent quality steel.
So I began to cut it down and spin it up and this is what I've ended up so far;
not the best pic.

The "machined" ends are 9.5mm and 10.5mm so once I get it in a real lathe hopefully I'll have something I can use .

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Respect mine and I'll respect yours.

yes, get one the same size as the hole.... measure it cos I can't remember

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

kenno

Contact theminiman, matt might sell you a couple of cast iron studs for those holes.

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Dalmeny

Where can I get more/new main bearing cap bolts

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Respect mine and I'll respect yours.

Only use ARP bolts throughout.

Grant

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100% Pure A Series Turbo
Morris - The Original RedBull Racing

Cut off the bolts, but still need to finish the cast iron studs which should hopefully be tomorrow.

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Respect mine and I'll respect yours.

what sealant/thread locker did you use for this?

Grant

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100% Pure A Series Turbo
Morris - The Original RedBull Racing

I forget exactly. It's a type of component sealer and it's green.
My brother is a mechanic (15 years) and he said it will do the job so fingers crossed .

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Respect mine and I'll respect yours.

looking good Kenno,,, just that if you`re using the 8v head then you will probably want to block off the oil gallery too (front of block , exhaust side) if you ran with a 16v head then you could use it,,, but on the 8v head there`s no meat in that area to be able to use it.

& i use Bens lovely alloy dissy-hole bungs too great work Ben

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.