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PostPosted: Thu Jan 09, 2014 8:29 pm 
soooo... earlier mick was nice enough to swap over the master and slave for me. That went smooth enough...

however come bleeding time its almost like the air never runs out of the line?? it always seems to have bubbles in it. like to the point that we're only getting to bleed it 80-90% of what it should probably be. the bite point is lower than it should be but its enough to have gotten me home without having to pump or without crunching. it felt better as I drove it. I dont think its leaking though? but where is all the air coming from??? otherwise it drives fine really. just bites quite low. and I know when I first started it it would crunch a bit. what should we be looking at and whtas the best way of bleeding it??


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 09, 2014 8:32 pm 
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Hi , I had the same on my early one , I ended up cracking the pipe at slave end and just letting loads of fluid run out ( keep topping up master ) then I bled it as normal worked for me


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 09, 2014 8:45 pm 
Do I just crack it open and let it pour out?? I should just have a fair amount of fluid ready I suppose?

we did the down - open - close - up -down - open - close - up method.

it would feel harder but as soon as we crack it open it'll go soft and all these bubbles start to come out again!! lol


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 09, 2014 8:48 pm 
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Location: Under the bonnet son!
If you let it settle overnight, the air will float to the top. Bleed again and the air will go away. If it keeps coming back, then there will be a problem with the master cylinder.

I wouldn't expect there to be a drama with the MC, but we won't know until the air settles out.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 09, 2014 8:54 pm 
yeah I've just got the stick on it now... Then I'll drive it again to fill it up with petrol. That should move the air around!!


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 09, 2014 8:55 pm 
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If none of that works my friend made a pressure bleed system that helped his prob so let me know if it continues


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 09, 2014 8:59 pm 
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If you do my way don't touch the peal just let it flow thru


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 09, 2014 8:59 pm 
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Peal lol auto correct pedal


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 09, 2014 9:09 pm 
will probably have a go tomorrow... fingers crossed!!!


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 09, 2014 9:15 pm 
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I don't fit new cylinders. I recondition my own ones. This way I can trust the bloke that put it together.
Just because a master cylinder is new does not mean it is any good. It has never been tested under operating conditions for a start.


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 09, 2014 9:16 pm 
yeah if this doesnt work mick suggested i put a kit through my old one..


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 09, 2014 9:50 pm 
took it for another drive, seems ok. The engagement point isnt all the way to the floor but it isnt quite up there. nearly like how it originally was before I got the leak.

Sohuld I leave the plank of wood depressing the clutch overnight or just do it tomorrow when I can see it and bleed it?


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 09, 2014 9:52 pm 
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Location: Under the bonnet son!
It seems to be settling out fine now. As you aren't driving it tomorrow, leave the stick off, and give it a bleed next chance you have after tomorrow. It should be fine then. Just mind the reservoir level.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 09, 2014 9:58 pm 
yeah, i might drive around the block and re bleed using the stick tomorrow... stick on - undo - redo stick off - stick on - undo - redo lol

also, i know this is on a minor forum, but it does possibly make sense i think?

http://www.morrisminorforum.com/article ... eding.html


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 09, 2014 10:02 pm 
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Location: Under the bonnet son!
loveb wrote:
yeah, i might drive around the block and re bleed using the stick tomorrow... stick on - undo - redo stick off - stick on - undo - redo lol

also, i know this is on a minor forum, but it does possibly make sense i think?

http://www.morrisminorforum.com/article ... eding.html



Yes that can be useful when the going gets really rough, but it seems to be working itself out now.

I find that because of the large amount of fluid which passes to the clutch slave cylinder, and the short distance, that air will generally be passed back to the MC over time to settle out by itself. A little bit more of a bleed will be all it needs now.

I told you about the old trick of putting a stick between the seat and the pedal overnight also helps. It squeezes the entrained air down to a couple of thousandths of its original size to help it detach and work its way up to the highest point in the cylinder a little more easily. Really good for brake systems I find. You've already done this though, and it is getting better as you have seen.

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