ykg2s4 wrote:
I removed the 2 bent studs and fitted 2 of the others and torqued the cap down to 60ft lbs
and it held good. It didn't look or feel like wanting to pull out. 2/3 of the thread is engaged.
If they were loctited in I doubt they'd budge. I have the 2 pieces that broke out they fit back
in place with no distortion and would be held in place by the bearing. I know it all sounds
bodgey but its a crying shame not to give it a try. If the studs don't pull out at 60ft lbs and
those corners could be welded it should be ok shouldn't it?
It's probably worth a try I guess, you have nothing to lose.
A few years ago, my nephew had a 3cyl Polaris 2 stroke jetski motor seize from no oil pump flow just after he bought it. It broke a rod, piston and the middle cylinder barrel, and smashed the unknown alloy crankcase really badly. A new crankcase was then NLA.
I would have written the crankcase off, it was smashed so bad with bits broken out. However Graham Russell sent it somewhere and it came back 4 days later like new- not even distorted. I don't know how they welded it.
I'd give him a ring, perhaps they could fix this too.
I'd not weld those 2 broken bits back in, it would be better to preheat the block, build the 2 spots up with TIG then deck it flat again.
You may also be able to tap the stud holes deeper before you start to get a bit more thread, then make longer studs.
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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.
