Matt,
If you set the base advance at TDC as usually suggested, you can set any of the 7 advance points at zero or above.
However, if you want to actually `retard' the ignition ie give spark timing after TDC, you will have to set the base advance at say 10deg ATDC to allow this.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I've not got any turbo experience, but does the advance vary much ideally with the change in turbo boost? How does this input interract with the timing on the dizzy on a car without electronic ignition?

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

for forced induction i can recomend the Autsportslab Megajolt Lite as it has a MAP sensor and you re set your igniton advance for a given boost pressure, I have been running it on my mini for around 5 years or more without any issue as all.

http://www.autosportlabs.net/Main_Page

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100% Pure A Series Turbo
Morris - The Original RedBull Racing

I know someone who played around with turbo's in the dark ages and they once found a dizzy out of some car that they were able to re-engineer so the vacuum advance became a boost retarder. I believe they said it was possible to do because the donor dizzy was spun the other way to what was needed, so the mechanism was working backwards. Or something like that

Mick by the end of the week I will have these units in stock. (For those who want to support us Local businesses) The manufacturer advises not to use them with Ignition coils that have a primary resistance lower than 1.5 OHMS. I will be selling these units for $200 post included. Or Complete with an electronic Ignition Kit for $250.00. We also have new Coils to go with them for another $50. So for $300 you get the lot Box, Electronic Ign, Kit and Coil Posted.

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DID I MENTION THAT I AM THE BEST SUPPLIER FOR MINI ELECTRICAL PARTS AND REPAIRS?
"Let us remove your "SHORTS"

Reading the comments on this unit it seems it requires a certain amount of voltage to operate.

2 Questions...

Will the unit continue to operate ok on a car fitted with a generator where the voltage tends to drop low at idle especially when operating for example wipers and headlights?

If ever found in a situation with a flat battery (eg too weak to crank) would it be possible to roll start the car?

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68 Morris Cooper S Mk1 (*ex 78 1275 LS 4th last built, 70 Morris 1500 OHC & 70 MiniMatic)

If your battery is at 12.6V (not charging - just the battery) that should surely be enough. Provided that you have a decent battery and decent connections, you should be fine even when at idle where your battery may not be charging. It might be worth while to check when the black box cuts out and then we can get a better answer - but the voltage drop from just the car running shouldn't be a problem.

Roll starting - well, it's just the same as normal except you might need to roll a little faster! When roll starting you will need power to get a spark - if your battery is really, really low, rolling the car faster can provide the current via the alternator. Same thing here - you'll need to get it rolling up to the speed where the generator voltage is high enough to get the black box kicking. Or you could just jump start it

It was me that had starting problems, these have gone away since I refitted the Lucas starter.
Even at 2deg C, it starts OK.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I'm running a generator and it works fine. Just watch the polarity of the generator.

1. Yes, the box needs 5 volts to operate. It does this by shedding seven of the nominal 12 volts from the car's supply. Its like making a 5 foot plank by cutting a 12 foot plank shorter. If your system is dragged down to 11, or 10, then it won't be a problem.

2. Yes it will start. When your battery is "flat", that means its discharged enough that it won't provide 100 amperes to the starter motor. If it is not a shagged battery, then as usual it will provide the approximate 5 amps for the coil just fine. The addition of the black box will only alter this value by a factor of perhaps 0.5 amperes, at worst. So 5.5 instead of 5, again, no trouble.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Perhaps my problem was low voltage to the Powermax module then, not the black box. Whatever, I needed 10.5V at the coil to get a spark. With the BIG starter on it, I had less than that.
It would only fire when I let go of the key, and no it doesn't do this now.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I would suggest that the voltage at the point you are getting the 12 volts from sags as the coil draws current. It may be there is a poor contact in the ignition. With overheads from inline ICs, it may be dropping instantaneously. You may not see this on the multimeter as it averages over a number of short sample intervals. I would split the blackbox box supply from the coil supply, or put in an ignition relay, or replace the ignition switch.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

I think it is the ignition switch. Changing the starter has just hidden/reduced the problem.

Nope, not this time. I went throught this, the voltage at the starter terminal was the same as at the coil. around 10.0V with the big starter. All good clean starter cables & connections, cleaned spade lugs on switch and fuse holder, bolted connections to coil, and a new 640CCA Century battery.
Before this I suspected the switch, but it's not the problem.
Anyway, now it is fine, I can't make it happen with the Lucas starter.
[edit] The ignition switch ran the Mini solenoid as usual, which then switched the Bosch starter one. So there was no more load on the ign switch white/red wire than normal.

BTW, during this phase I bought a brand new ign switch, in a white box. When cranking, it totally dropped the ignition circuit. I took it back to the importer and suggested he might check the other 20 he had in stock.
Quality control? What's that these days?

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Hi all,
Got a black box and fitted up but cannot get any spark. Unit powers up OK and I've edited the advance curve to std mk1 Cooper S but when I wire in the black box I get no spark? I can rewire it back to using the Pertronix ignitor directly off the coil and get a good fat spark but nothing with the black box in the mix? Having read through the thread I checked the voltage at the coil (this is where I picked up the live supply for the BB as it seemed easiest when I made the wiring loom up) and it seems to vary from around 10.2 to 10.5 volts? Could this be my problem and, if so, how do I get around it?
Thanks
Rod

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1967 New British Racing Green Mk1 Cooper S, 1967 Lake Green 1275 MG Midget, 1969 Jet Red / Crystal White Mk2 Cooper S, 1972 Gambier Turquoise Clubman GT (ex police), 1972 Camino Gold Clubman GT, 2009 JCW Challenge Edition, Megane RS265, Clio RS220.