Hi all,

Does anyone run this little gadget in their remote gearbox? I was wondering if it was worth it? Does it hook in between the remote has and the gearbox itself?

http://minisport.com.au/mini-reverse-lo ... -gearboxes

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I wish I had some sort of witty quote in my signature

It is a physical stop for the lever - at the flange where the plate clamps the lever into the housing.

Totally unnecessary on a road car. If you're worried about possibly trying to engage reverse in any normal driving, you should consider whether you should be driving at all.

Gotcha. Well, I don't drive at all - because of my eyesight, but my Fiancee found with my current rod change box it was extremely vague and very easy to miss the 4th gate. Remote will probably be a lot more direct I assume.

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I wish I had some sort of witty quote in my signature

remote will be a lot more direct, it's hard to miss the gate. You can also fit a stronger reverse detent spring

though aren't you meant to lift the gearstick to get reverse on a rod change?

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

If you want a stronger lockout spring, make one from a blue or red die spring, 3/8" OD.
Red is stronger of the two, I run one. Works great.
Note if you have a reverse light switch in there you will need to make a smaller diameter plunger to fit inside the spring.

[edit] If you can only get 10mm springs (damned metrication!) grind the outside down to 9.5mm (3/8").

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

If you experience issues finding gears in a rod change it's because somewhere along the line something is worn out.

And a rod change gearstick shouldn't be able to move across to reverse without physically lifting the gearstick up to move it across.


So you may be able to fix up your rod change to provide clean no trouble gear selection without too much work.

Rodchange boxes have a bit of flat bar welded inside the shifter's bottom tin cover. The sharp corner wears off it eventually.
Only 5 mins work to bung some weld on there and grind it square again.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

If you have a welder...

Cheers, Ian

(and, No, the Moke is still a project ... getting the S back on the round has assumed precedence...

I grew up on a farm, don't they all have an arc welder (including yours?) $99 or so at Bunnings?

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.